Pope Leo XIV’s Traditional Garb Hints at Shift in Vatican Traditions

Pope Leo XIV’s Traditional Garb Hints at a Shift in Vatican Traditions

June 13, 2025 EMMANUEL ADEBAYO AJIBOLA

When Pope Leo XIV made his first appearance on the central loggia of St Peter’s Basilica after his May 8 election, the message was clear, and it was sewn into every stitch of his attire. In a striking departure from the understated wardrobe of Pope Francis, Pope Leo appeared in the traditional red satin mozzetta shoulder cape, a richly embroidered burgundy stola, and a gold cross suspended by a dual-strand silk cord. His fashion choices quickly caught the attention of liturgical style enthusiasts around the world, igniting speculation about whether this return to more formal papal garb signals a broader return to tradition within the Church.

Over the weeks following his election, Pope Leo’s evolving wardrobe continued to make headlines among the liturgically fashion-conscious. Observers noted his choice of white papal trousers, lace-trimmed garments, an amitto, an alb, and cufflinks – all items closely associated with pre-Francis papal style. For tailors in Rome’s exclusive ecclesiastical tailoring houses, Leo’s aesthetic shift has brought new hope. They anticipate a revival in demand if the pope’s sartorial sensibilities inspire similar choices among clergy worldwide.

A Nod to Tradition

According to Rev. John Wauck, professor of Church communication at the Pontifical University of the Holy Cross in Rome, Leo’s wardrobe marks “a return to form” — in line with the likes of Pope Benedict XVI and Pope John Paul II and stretching back centuries.

“It shows a respect for tradition,” Wauck explained. For many conservative Catholics, this reverence for papal custom offers reassurance after years of unease under Francis, whose papacy was marked by informality and a deliberate move away from the grandeur of his predecessors. One of the most contentious shifts under Francis was his decision to curtail the celebration of the Latin Mass, a move that alienated many traditionalists.

Pope Leo, who has already demonstrated ease with Latin and often chants the Sunday noontime Angelus in the language, has fuelled hope among some that he may reverse Francis’ restrictions and allow greater access to the Tridentine Mass.

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However, not all experts are convinced that liturgical attire is a sign of policy reversal.

“It’s too early to say whether Leo’s traditional style will translate into a shift in liturgical regulations,” said Massimo Faggioli, professor of theology at Villanova University, Pope Leo’s alma mater. “Still, his stylistic choices have certainly resonated with U.S. conservatives, many of whom had grown weary of Francis’ simplicity.”

Faggioli noted that Francis’ papal style may come to be seen as “an interlude” rather than a permanent shift in Vatican tradition.

Subtle but Symbolic Changes

At his May 18 inaugural Mass, Pope Leo’s blessing with holy water revealed shirt cuffs fastened with cufflinks, a subtle but symbolically rich detail. His vestments included the traditional amitto, alb, and cingulum layers once typical of papal liturgy but largely absent during Francis’ tenure.

One particularly discreet yet telling change was Leo’s return to white papal trousers, a centuries-old custom not seen since Francis adopted more subdued attire.

Beyond clothing, Leo has also restored certain ceremonial gestures, such as the traditional baciamano, the kissing of the papal ring, which Francis often discouraged by pulling his hand away.

Rev. Wauck sees these choices as emblematic of Leo’s broader approach. “He’s embracing tradition as something beautiful and valuable, rather than something to distance oneself from,” Wauck said.

A New Residence?

One open question remains: will Leo take up residence in the papal apartment in the Apostolic Palace? Francis famously declined its use, opting instead to live in the modest Santa Marta guesthouse and dine in the communal cafeteria. Leo has yet to announce his plans.

Rev. Castro Prudencio sees these decisions as expressions of papal character more than policy. “For Francis, it was always about simplicity. Pope Leo is continuing the tradition embraced by Benedict and those before him. “That’s the nature of the Church; it accommodates different styles.”

Whether Leo XIV’s papacy will extend his traditional leanings beyond vestments remains to be seen. But for now, his ornate attire is prompting reflection, speculation and renewed interest in the deep symbolism of what a pope wears.